PO-33 Backup & Restore Tips

The PO-33 uses an audio data stream to transfer information to and from your computer. This method is similar to how old home computers used to save and load data to tape. I had mixed results with the reliability of this process on the PO-33 (and the original Korg Volca), but the tips below helped sort things out.

Tip 1 (general tip for any hardware using this method) - on your PC turn off any 'audio enhancements'. This can distort the signal which can lead to failed backup/restore. Having a look in your system tray, there may be an audio app running that is applying EQ or effects to default audio, this can hinder the backup/restore which needs as clean a signal as possible.

Tip 2 (PO-33) - check that when taking a backup, the file is stereo. Load up the .wav and zoom right in, there should be different data on each channel, if not, it has been recorded in mono and will not restore as expected. Some audio input hardware will be mono only and a cheap audio interface may be needed. You also need to select stereo input/output in the software you are using to record.

Note the data in the left channel (top) is different to the data in the right channel (bottom)

Tip 3 (PO-33) - if you are having trouble with your own backup/restore, first start with something known to work, to iron out any issues with your local setup. There is a free sample pack on the Teenage Engineering site here, suggest you try to restore this. If that works, then do a backup of this restored data and then try to restore that.

SP-404 Fat Pads

Well, it's been a while since I last posted. Summer 'holiday' so got a chance to order/upgrade the pads on my Roland SP-404.

MPCStuff have done a great job with these, they are not as 'clicky' as the original pads, they feel smooth and more responsive. But do note, they are not silent due to the 404 pad/board design and mechanism that forms the contact to play the sound, but they are certainly an improvement over stock pads. Replaced the FX buttons also but really just cosmetic.

Ok, bunch of pics...

...before...

...off with the face plate...

...take off the back panel...

...move the power/RCA/MIDI board out the way...

...get to the main board...

...these are the stock pads, swap them out...

...unit mostly back together for quick test...

...face plate back on, done.

MPC 1000 right hand side PCB replacement

The dial on my MPC 1000 is a bit scatty and some of the buttons need to be pushed at special angles. You can work with it but it gets in the way of your workflow. I decided to replace the entire board and take advantage of the improved data wheel that comes with the mpcstuff version of the board.

Stuff to buy

• MPC 1000 right side PCB from mpc stuff here

Stuff to do

• Take off the front and top panels of your mpc as seen here, no need to remove the side panels for this upgrade.
• Methodically and carefully remove the plastic buttons
• Unscrew and disconnect the board, take your time with the connections. If you are unsure take pictures as you go to remember what went where. The blue ribbon cable needs care also, using a small screw driver was I able to open the connection to remove the cable (when re-assembling I had to push the cable in a little firmly before closing the connection back up carefully/slowly with pliers).
• Connect and screw in the new board. Suggest you test before putting the plastic buttons and panels back on.
• When using JJOS you may need to change your data wheel type in the settings
• Once happy put the panels back on.

Pics

MPC 1000 Pad Upgrade

My MPC 1000 is the original blue/red version, and the pads are the old version where every pad is individual, prone to issues, and not super responsive. I decided to upgrade to the fat pad set from mpcstuff.com - here's how it went.

Stuff to buy

• Because I had the individual pads I needed the full upgrade kit, so not just replacement pads but the sensors also. I went with this kit from mpcstuff which comes fully assembled.

Stuff to do

• Take off the front panel and top panel of your MPC as seen in this video. You do not need to remove the sides for this particular upgrade.
• Unscrew and disconnect the old pads/sensors, be careful with the connectors and take your time with the connections. I found using a small screw driver to slowly ease the connectors off worked. Some of the cabling is tight, again take your time.
• Connect and screw in the upgrade kit. I had difficulty with the length of one of the cables, but I managed to squeeze it in somehow. It will work when you get the angles right.
• Before putting the panels back on, test the unit, best to find out if you haven't wired it up properly now rather then when it is all back together.
• Note: you may need to update your Akai OS/JJOS so the software works with this latest kit
• If you're happy put the panels back on.

Pics

MPC 1000 Compact Flash Hard Drive

Rather than put a 'moving parts' hard drive into my MPC 1000 I was reading on mpc-forums about using a CF card instead. This was all pretty easy, steps below!

Stuff to buy

• HDM10 adapter - I managed to get one from Thomann, but they do not appear to stock this anymore, so eBay may be your best bet or mpcstuff.com.
• CF to IDE adapter - I found this one on eBay and it worked out of the box.
• CF card - I went with this one (4 GB) from Amazon and it worked out of the box.

Stuff to do

• You need to take off the front of your MPC to get at the hard drive slot, there are videos on youtube on how to do this, for example watch the start of this video.
• Assemble everything - plug the CF card into the IDE adapter, then plug the IDE adapter into the HDM10, then plug to HDM10 into your MPC hard drive slot (with the MPC off).
• The IDE adapter pins are aligned to the right (see pictures below)
• I put some card underneath so stop the adapter hanging (see pictures below)

References

• A very good set of instructions on how to do this here, Google can translate if needed
• The MPC forums thread on the subject here.

Pics

Orbit Factory Reset

For reference, here is how to reset an E-MU Orbit 9090 v2 (and possibly other E-MU units) to their factory settings (taken from the FAQ at SweetWater).

Q. How do I Reset my unit back to the Factory Default settings?

1. Turn on the unit while holding both Cursor buttons down
2. Once booted up in Diagnostics, turn the Data Entry Control until you see Initialize.
3. Press the Enter button.
4. Press the Enter button again to verify that you want to initialize you unit.
5. Now, turn the unit off. Wait a few seconds and then re-power the unit normally.

Rig-3 ?

Hello (again) world..! Another RIG (v.3) is coming together. The idea is to have a 90's hardware setup (that will fit into a small case), to quickly power up and put together a couple of tracks (probably, predictably, DNB).

The main sound source will be the Orbit, which is loaded with old school dance possibility, and I may use some of the sounds from the EM-1 but this is primarily the sequencer. Using my existing Behringer mixer for now to get up and running but that isn't a 90's piece of kit, but that probably doesn't matter.